Assam

The modern history of tea began with the Opium Wars, where the British pushed Indian-grown opium into China, causing the Qing Dynasty to ban tea trade with the British. Hooked on tea, the British had to find alternatives, including smuggling Chinese tea plants into India, specifically Assam, the largest tea-producing region of the country. Assam is in northeastern India and borders China.

It is one of the only places west of China where tea plants grow naturally; in fact, Assam has a native tea plant that is the closest living relative of Camellia sinensis, Camellia assamica. Traditional Assam tea is made using Camellia assamica instead of the standard tea plant.

Camellia assamica tends to have more muted flavors than Camellia sinensis, which is why modern Assam is usually processed as black tea to maximize flavor. It is the most common tea in India and the tea most often used in Masala Chai.

This tea is often processed using the Crush, Tear, Curl (CTC) method for South Asian markets. CTC tea is shaped into small pellets and is often considered lower-grade tea, although it is ideal for Masala Chai.

Assam has a bold flavor profile with low acidity and pronounced maltiness. This rich maltiness is what makes it pair exceptionally well with milk and sugar.

In my experience, Assam tends to be somewhat one-note compared with many Chinese black teas. Because of the nature of Camellia assamica and its processing, I have found relatively little difference between inexpensive CTC teas and more expensive whole-leaf varieties.

Its consistency, strength, and distinctly malty character are some of the reasons it has become the backbone of tea culture throughout South Asia.

Assam, especially CTC tea, is most commonly brewed as Masala Chai. It is also excellent brewed Western style using boiling water for approximately three minutes.

Whole-leaf Assam can usually be steeped multiple times until the flavor fades, although the number of infusions depends heavily on the quality and style of the tea.

Assam may also be brewed gongfu style, though I personally do not think it is where the tea shines. I typically use 4–5 grams of tea with 95–100°C water, beginning with 15-second infusions.